Sydney Harbour Sunrise Kayak Tour (#3)

Friday was a day I had been eagerly anticipating for weeks. I couldn’t even fall asleep until after 11pm the night before, and it was a restless night; I was so excited, and I kept waking up thinking that I’d overslept the alarm. When the alarm actually did go off at 4:45am, I was tired and disoriented, but a few minutes later I was pulling on clothes and drinking a Red Bull. Today, I would be venturing out in the pre-dawn hours for my sunrise kayak tour of Sydney Harbour with Sydney by Kayak.

This kayak tour was the first ticket I bought, when I started scheduling the activities on the List a few weeks ago. I love being out on the water, and I especially love kayaking, so I was ecstatic that this experience was going to be part of my project. Unfortunately, my powers of precognition failed; I managed to pick the worst weather we’ve had in weeks. Most of our summer days have been sunny, and it wasn’t even until I walked out the front door that I realized with surprise that it was raining. I wasn’t dressed for rain; I was prepared for a cool breeze with a long-sleeved shirt, and prepared for after the paddle with a dry change of clothes, but I hadn’t even considered rain. And I didn’t want to be late, so I didn’t turn back.

When I arrived at the Lavender Bay Boat Ramp, it was clear that there would not be much of a sunrise on display. Our guides, Ben and Sophie, thought it best to try and wait out the rain for a little bit, so the group of us relaxed and chatted while enjoying our lattes and flat whites, included with the tour, for about twenty minutes before heading out onto the water. I wasn’t sure how big the group would be, or if everyone would be a tourist, but there were four of us there to begin with, all locals (if I can call myself a local), and we were joined by an American family of four before we made our way down to the beach.

We split off into two uneven groups; the two locals who had never kayaked before stayed with Sophie, closer to Lavender Bay, while the remaining six of us headed out with Ben. The family was friends with the other local woman on the tour, so it was me with a group of five people who knew each other. Sometimes situations like that can be awkward, but I tuned into the sights and sounds of the harbour instead, taking in the calls of birds and the distant blasts of ship horns.

I hadn’t been in a kayak in probably two years, but I felt stable and at ease. Sydney by Kayak had really thought of everything. The life vests we were using had a convenient pocket in the front where I could put my phone, and we were also each given a small towel to store in there that we could use to wipe our hands. I had my camera in a dry bag that I set under my knees, and there was even a cup holder for my coffee. And my choice in clothing turned out to be just fine; it was about 18C (around 64F), and the harbour water was warm, almost bath temperature. I’m a messy paddler and always get a bit wet, and the drizzle added to that, but I didn’t mind it one bit.

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Ben took us paddling out past Luna Park and under the Sydney Harbour Bridge, where we all got photos with the Sydney Opera House and the city skyline. Since I was the only solo kayaker, I paddled around a bit while Ben was taking shots of the big group, which I’m sure was no easy task. I have to work hard to take straight photos when the water is not bobbing me up and down.

It was pretty incredible paddling under the bridge, and the quiet really gave me a chance to look at the scenery. We passed people fishing off Milsons Point, which I thought was nuts given what I assumed would be high levels of pollution, but according to Ben it’s the cleanest commercial harbour in the world. People do eat fish from the harbour, which is generally considered okay in limited quantities, though I don’t think I’d want to do it myself. Still, I can imagine that if you enjoy fishing, it’s a nice peaceful place to be early in the morning. And you can always catch and release.

As we turned around to paddle back toward Blues Bay, Ben asked me what I did for work “back home,” so I explained that I actually live in Sydney, and that I’m a teacher. I know it’s logical for people to assume I’m a tourist as soon as I open my mouth, and I don’t hold it against them, but sometimes it’s a difficult reminder, realizing that I will never truly fit in here. People will always see me as a foreigner. But this morning, the water and fresh air had me in such high spirits, and the question didn’t bother me so much.

Heading into Blues Bay, we had to time our maneuvering to stay out of the ferry path; apparently Sydney Harbour is unique in that the ferries have right of way over every other craft on the water. I’ve never paddled in such a busy place, but Ben kept a tight rein on us and made sure we were being safe. The water was rather choppy, so paddling took a little effort.

I took some more photos from the west side of the bridge, and then we had time to chat as we were waiting for a couple of ferries to pass. It turns out that the American family were originally from Seattle, so we talked about kayaking in the Pacific Northwest, Seattle neighborhoods, and of course, inevitably, American politics. It was surprisingly refreshing to talk to people who come from the place I called home for so many years, to be able to describe the part of town where I lived and to see their faces light up with recognition. I’m a pretty introverted person, and I didn’t expect to feel so invigorated by interacting with unfamiliar people, but it was actually energizing. Maybe I’m still a bit homesick after all.

Unfortunately by this point I was starting to feel actually sick, nauseated from the waves; I do tend to get motion sick, and while kayaking is not usually a catalyst, it’s happened to me once before. Luckily we were just about done with our tour, so I made it back to the boat ramp with no issues.

Do I wish it had been sunny? Of course. I’d been hoping for some epic sunrise photos (check out @sydney_by_kayak on Instagram for beautiful snaps from previous tours). But do I regret going in the rain? Not in the least. I captured a few dark, moody shots of the harbour in the early morning light, and the physical activity was so satisfying after being laid up with my ankle for the past ten days. Sydney by Kayak has even offered a discount for the tour if we want to go again, given the unpleasant weather we had on this trip, which I thought was generous of them. I would certainly enjoy going again if I have the time.

I think my biggest takeaway from this experience, though, is how much outdoor activity replenishes me, fills up my soul. I have been struggling with the weather here in Sydney; the heat is absolutely oppressive, and it makes me want to stay inside and do absolutely nothing. I have no appetite and no energy. But I have to be active, I have to have fresh air. I have to find ways to be outside despite the heat.